Aghan – 0 km
“Where is Nubra?”
“Nubra is going on since 40
km!”
We were eight friends,
traveling in Laddakh. Four of us took-on Laddakh-ian roads on Bullet. Other
four took a 4-wheeler. We were to visit a camp in Nubra Valley.
After several kilograms of Maggi
and numerous litres of tea, we were nowhere near our actual plan. We thought
Nubra Valley was a place where our camps were laid. Khardung-La was last where
we met our friends. That was several hours ago. We decided to continue our
journey.
Till that fateful junction,
there was only one road. T-point is not good for travellers. We stopped there
to decide which direction was the right direction. After 30-minutes discussion,
we took the road which showed “Agham – 24 km”. Like T-point, assumption is also
not good for travellers. We assumed that Agham was a town where we would find our
camps and be reunited with our friends. I never missed my friends more.
Riding towards Agham, we
came across the best views of our trip – and lives. Hills all around, running
stream, lush green jungle, horses grazing, Laddakh-azure sky and clouds casting
shadows on the hills. It was stunning – unreal and frightening – like a witch.
What kept us going was good
condition of road – we felt that condition of the road was good because of regular
usage. After 10 km we saw first milestone:
“Aghan – 14 km”
After that, milestones
started raining.
At “Aghan – 0 km” we saw
EXACTLY one house. If there exists superlative of flustered, we felt that. We
rode few more kilometres to confirm if there was any mode of communication. But
it was like chasing a goose which was wild and non-existent.
We checked-in the
exactly-one-house. It was government rest-house. There were four residents: two
children, one lady in mid-thirties and an old lady who wore sun-glasses when
there was no sun and was bent like a chair – upside-down.
We paid Rs. 600 for the
night-halt which included endless cups of tea and delicious dinner. We would
have given our right arm in exchange for the stay.
After fixing our food and
shelter, our minds wandered towards our friends:
“They might think that we
are dead.”
“What if they inform our
fathers?”
This was scary – very scary
thought. There was no way we could contact them. We couldn’t return because of
the dark. Signals had vanished from our cell phones.
"To hell with it.
We’ll see whatever happens.”
With that intention we
ordered another cup of tea and continued the banter, with nothing but sound of stream
in background.
The next morning we rode
towards Leh. We encountered land-slides. It took long to cross the roads which
had land-movers, trucks and rocks along with us. And then snowfall started –
out of sunny sky. Then sun also left us and hid behind what once looked like
innocent clouds.
We braved them all, and reached our hotel. We all had a story to tell to our friends – and our grandchildren.
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